Monday 19 March 2012

Pork with white sesame and spring Greens



Pork with white sesame and spring greens 
Simple yet bursting with flavour, this pork dish is an indulgence in a very good way. Coupled with the goodness of sesame and greens, this pork dish is easy, delicious and very much comforting.

It was on of those days, marked by cravings of something familiar; something that invokes bonding. Me and my family… scattered around this earth like tiny islands-separated by geography and yet all belonging to the same. No matter how far we drift; essentially we are all but a part of our very own archipelago.

In memory of some of the best times with my loved ones; particularly my siblings, I am cherishing one of the dishes we’d often lick our fingers on (particularly on those drives along NH47: Guwahati - Shillong Highway).

Talking about the source of this recipe; I have to admit- preparing it was like a trip down memory lane. Nestled somewhere between Guwahati (Assam) and Shillong (Meghalaya) is this tiny eating joint. No billboards... for all that it is: it's a tiny place with a big take on flavours. To reach this foodie sanctum, you need to climb up a mini hillock, tackle the stairs and endure a shabby room (whitewashed with blue green lime based paint; light with a couple of queer 60 volt bulbs and a few benches and tables). I gather, the eatery was a necessity and a brilliant local venture; hosting hungry truck drivers criss-crossing the entire North-East of India via the NH47 highway. It had no name, and rightly so: the truck drivers and their assistants (handymen, as they are known) doesn’t need that frill). It’s the food they are there for and they are from all across the nation. (Some of my friends would have to eat their words when they land in this eatery: food from the North-East is not a matter of acquired taste). 

Dad discovered this place back in the early 70’s. He had just started his logistics and warehousing business-one of the very few ‘local lads’ in the business. As he tells us now… dealing with trucks and inter-state freight wasn’t an easy task. I think he went ‘native’… perpetually living a dual life: one as an urban middle class lad raving to make a good living for himself and a nomadic young entrepreneur living and travelling like the truck drivers themselves and sometimes with them. While on his trips, he would meet up with drivers and middlemen in such queer places all along the highway and ate what they eat. He tells us that food for truck drivers is a big deal and rightly so; they’d have to drive the beast for hours together, sometimes passing areas without a house or a shop (forget about eating joints). Therefore, any place where they could rest up, lie down, and eat to their heart’s content would be like an oasis reckoning thirsty travellers. And yes, no small portions in the original dhaba culture.

Fast-forward to some 25 years latter, my brother re-discovered that place. Just a little hint from my brother did it to remind my dad of that place. Must have brought back so many memories for him. It seems the place hasn’t change much: just that it was now run by the original owner’s nephew wife. They have kept it in the family! On the other hand; dad has moved over from the freight business; yet, I think he has retained some things from those days: He owns a restaurant now and calls it Dhaba… and he has stuck to what he thinks a dhaba should be J

As for us siblings: visiting that place is like going back and re-living a little of dad’s youth. My brother calls the owner ‘Mami’ and so do we. Here’s to dad and my siblings: I know I can’t do the real thing; yet just a try. 

So, yes this is a cheat's recipe. I have been thinking hard on trying to recreate the dish. In my own little way of course. Pork with sesame and spring greens:  Originally made with paste of sesame seeds and mustard greens (lai xaak); I have conveniently adapted to substitute the latter with spring greens. However, if you can manage the real thing-don’t hold back. With so few ingredients and without the oil; this dish is a taste test of the ingredients per se; so make sure they are nice and fresh. 



Ingredients
Pork, cut into 1.5 inch cubes 1 kg
Spring green                           ½ kg (since I couldn’t find mustard green)
White sesame seeds               5 tablespoon
Onion                                      1 large
Garlic cloves (with skin on)   2
Garlic paste                             1 tsp
Ginger, grated                        2 tsp
Red chilli flakes                      ½ tsp (or adjust)
Rice flour                                1 tbsp mixed with 3 tbsp water
Salt to taste

Method:

Soak 3 tbsp sesame seeds in water.

In the meantime, dry roast the 2 garlic cloves with skin on, remaining sesame seeds and red chilli flakes for a couple of minutes. The garlic should be roasted from within. Let it cool and make a coarse paste of the same. Marinate the pork pieces with this rub and a bit of salt for ½ hour.

Blend together the soaked sesame seeds, onion and garlic to make a somewhat smooth paste.





On a flat skillet, dry braise the pork pieces and keep them warm. This gives the dish a smoky flavour.




Into a wok, tip in the braised pork chunks, onion and sesame paste and sauté n high heat until the onions paste looses its rawness. Cover and cook for 20 minutes on low heat. Keep stirring in between. If it gets too dry sprinkle a little water. 

Now add the spring green (you are better off using mustard green or lai xak) and the rice flour (with the added water); mix well. Add the grated ginger. Cover and cook for another 10 minutes. Uncover and reduce the sauce to your liking. Taste and season. Serve immediately with plain rice or noodles.



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